Day 12 – Opatija & Rovinj

Rovinj Old Town

Map showing the location of Rovinj

Thanks to Google we can include this aerial shot of Rovinj Old Town
Originally an island, connected to the mainland in the 18th century

Today we decided on a road trip to Rovinj about 1 ¼  hours’ drive southwest of here.  We left at around 10:00 AM arriving there shortly after 11 AM.  Unfortunately, wall to wall traffic and tourists meant circulating to try to find a parking spot.  Eventually, we were successful in finding free parking about 20 minutes’ walk from Old Town.  The folks from UK we met yesterday recommended Rovinj and they were not wrong. It was a gem with great ambiance and all the charm of any Old Town we’ve visited in the past.

It is very small and restricted by being bound by its island like borders. It is predominantly surrounded by water so has a very large marina in one area which is crowded with restaurants, cafes and hotels and along certain areas are rocky outcrops dropping to the sea with buildings and walkways above. On the west side, facing the Adriatic Sea there were a few swimmers and sunbathers on the outcrops below. Rounding the northern shore was another smaller marina with fewer catamarans and boats.

In the centre of the promontory were many pedestrian walkways along which were numerous well maintained colourful buildings in which were found a variety of shops selling: clothing, jewellery, art or souvenirs. There were of course many restaurants and cafes where patrons were enjoying relaxing and visiting while having lunch or coffee or a drink.

Around the marina was the area which had the largest plazas with fountains and an aura of wealth. It was also where there seemed to be the greatest gathering of people. Leaving this area, we proceeded around the outer edges of the town, ascending gradually, to finally arrive at the Basilica near the top. It is very large and had many visitors. Since today is September 17, the day between Edna and Norm Petrin’s (Eloise's parents) birthdays, she lit a candle in remembrance of them both, hoping they’re keeping each other company!

We gradually descended the stairway along the alley through the shops back to the main pedestrian walkway to make our way back to a meeting point to head back for the long walk to our car.

We were pleased to have made the journey to visit this Adriatic Coastal Town.  

Along the route

Scenes around Rovinj

Pedestrian walkway in Old Town

The main harbour

The main harbour

Plaza near the harbour

Seaside dining

Interesting scene

One of the bathing areas

Trees here are hugely impressive and sometimes gnarly

A glimpse of the church tower

Church of St. Euphemia - Baroque catholic church built in 1736

Inside the church

Inside the church

Istrian Coast Brandy vendor

An alley of art

An alley of art

The Market in Rovinj

Truffles are available around the Istrian Coastal area

Day 11- Opatija

Today was spent exploring Opatija, mostly wishing to see what the seaside had to offer. We headed east from our place looking for an easy access down to the waterfront and eventually located a route requiring few stairs and a smooth sidewalk with a gradual descent.

We strolled along a very pleasant walkway which continued to show beautiful hotels and manicured gardens just above us. It is a very popular area with many others enjoying the same experience as us. There are several benches along the walkway for those who wish to stop and gaze out at the Adriatic Sea. It is a very relaxing place for sure. As we continued on our journey, we arrived at a marina which had many small boats, not as large as we’d seen previously, and a number of waterfront cafes. Though we were looking for breakfast, the most they had to offer was a croissant and coffee, but we wanted more. One restaurant advertised they were opening at 11:00, so we wandered a little more and at 11:00 discovered the kitchen only opened at 11:30!

A little more wandering brought us to a tableau announcing we were at the small fishing harbour of Volosko. We had actually walked to a nearby area which was the start of the Lungomare coastal promenade. While waiting for a much anticipated meal, we wandered into a shop which specialized in sales of various truffle delicacies which looked very interesting. These, in various forms, are served here in meals with pasta. Truffles are found in Istria, in the Mirna River Valley. It is the truffle capital.

Once we had finally eaten, we headed towards the west side of Opatija to see what we had missed yesterday while the shops were closed. We wandered back up towards the main street but after some time decided down by the waterfront was more interesting so returned to see areas we had missed before. It is certainly peaceful and enjoyable to watch the activity amongst the people, dogs, sunbathers and general activity though little was happening on the water.

We eventually sat at a café on the waterfront, enjoying a cool one. We sat next to a couple from England who soon engaged us in conversation, of course suggesting we were American. We soon set them straight. They are world travelers, so had much to share.

When we’d finished our drinks, we headed back to our place for a bit of a rest before heading out for dinner to the restaurant nearby which was closed last night! We enjoyed sea bream, caught in the Adriatic sea, which was excellent, along with a Greek salad and a local beer. We were very satisfied with our choice. 

Tomorrow we plan to peruse a little more of the Istrian Coast which is purported to be worth a visit.

Our stroll along the seafront

Our stroll along the seafront

This tree has grown around the rocks

The marina at the village of Volosko within the city of Opatija

The village of Volosko within the city of Opatija

The old opera house currently for sale

Park Angiolina -  A park near the city centre

View towards the city centre

Eloise pondering the possibilities

Day 10 – From Plitvice National Park to Opatija

Our route today

Today we left the Park area in the rain so we were pleased to be leaving the area and hoping for better, drier weather. Before long we headed north and rose into a new mountainous area and rose sharply, maneuvering hairpin turns to take us ever upward above the clouds. We always take the backroads to enjoy the countryside and more relaxing roads. Having said that, the roads today were bikers’ bliss. Smooth pavement and twisties within twisties.

The countryside gradually changed introducing us to ever greater numbers of fields of corn and bales of hay. We eventually saw flocks of sheep in the fields and soon herds of cows to explain the need for the hay, we guess. Along the drive we passed many small villages dotting the countryside, often showing disrepair due to age but at other times homes were beautifully maintained. Our eyes were continually drawn to new vistas to enjoy.

Around midday, we arrived back along the coast and calm waters with several large islands just offshore. We stopped briefly at a café for a break to enjoy the scenery, noticing the large number of bikers enjoying the perfect twisty roads despite the drizzle. We also noticed the return of numerous small campervans who found campsites along the Opatija Riviera.

Arriving in Opatija, our first observation was the hilliness and lack of parking. The lack of parking was maybe due to it being Sunday. Opatija does look very intriguing, but we had trouble parking to find a restaurant for lunch before checking in to our place. After a couple tries and awkward reversals, we managed to find underground parking with room to spare. We had lunch overlooking the sea and relaxed while waiting to meet our host for the next few days.

We made a second attempt to locate our apartment having called the host and had adjacent parking. Without too much difficulty, we backed up an alley to park, hopefully, for the duration of our stay! We are in an excellent beautifully spacious 2-bedroom lower floor apartment of a 3-storey house, walking distance to what we should need while we’re here. First impressions suggest Opatija is a city with much charm. We look forward to exploring it further.

Incidentally, we're only 2 or 3 hours by car from Venice, Italy.

An interesting bush with berries we've never seen before- poke weed

Views along the road

An interesting bridge to the adjacent island 

Views around Opatija

View from our lunch spot

A pair of strangely ornate chimney stacks

Got to be the gnarliest tree 

Maiden with a seagull
1956 statue by sculptor Zvonko Car overlooking Kvarner Bay

A view looking East

The red sunset reflected in the East